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Making Clothes & Skins - Preparations Part 3

In this third part of “Preparations for Making Clothes & Skins” we are going to prepare those ‘Texture-Map Templates’ to make them easier to work with. I’ll also show you a “mirror-technique” that might come in handy when you create skins or parts of clothing.

For this tutorial I’m using Photoshop CS, but I’m sure you can make it work with older or newer versions, PS Elements and other graphic programs, like Paint Shop Pro, Gimp etc.

BUT! If you are gonna make your own clothes or skins your program must have functions for layers, transparency and Alpha channels - and you have to be able to save your files as TARGA (TGA) files.

You will also need: Robin Woods Texture-Map Templates.

Don’t get what I’m talking about?

Well, you probably missed: Making Clothes & Skins - Preparations Part 1 and Making Clothes & Skins - Preparations Part 2 :)

Optimise the Texture-Map Templates

Robin Woods templates have the resolution 1024×1024 pixels and that is a great resolution to work with while creating clothes or skin in your graphic program.

1. Create a folder for all Template Layers

Open up your Graphic program and open Robin Wood’s texture-template-file for the HEAD.

Preparations-Part3 00The template looks like this.


Preparations-Part3 01Now take a look at the Layers palette. The template contain lots of layers.

If you create a folder (set) to put them in the template will be much easier to work with once you start creating clothes or skins.

Select the ‘Neck Polys Vector SO’ layer and click the folder at the bottom of the layers palette.


Preparations-Part3 02That will create a folder (set) named: Set 1.

Now drag the layers underneath into that folder.

Note! Try to keep the layers in the same order!

I renamed my folder and called it: UV-MAPS by double-clicking the text of the folder and simply change the name.


Preparations-Part3 03This is my final result! So much easier to work with!

Now you may select or deselect ALL the map-layers by simply clicking the eye beside the FOLDER to turn ALL on or off - MUCH easier than having to deal with like 10 layers one by one.

Go to File/Save to save your improved file.


Preparations-Part3 04Next!

Repeat this with Robin Wood’s texture-template-files for the UPPER-BODY and LOWER-BODY.

I’m putting all layers into a folder named: UV-MAPS in both those files - keeping the layers in the original order.

When I’m done the Layer palette of both Upper and Lower-body files looks like this.

Go to File/Save to save both your improved files.


When that’s done you should have 3 improved Texture-Map Templates psd-files 1024×1024 pixels.

2. Create Middle Guide-lines

In Photoshop you can create ‘guides’ that appears as lines to help you out when creating clothes or skins. In my opinion these guide-lines are to thin… So I’ve created some Middle Guide-lines of my own, that works better for me - and are really useful when creating skins or clothes.

Preparations-Part3 05Open up your Graphic program and open Robin Wood’s texture-template-file for the HEAD.

First I’m going to open up the folder (set) we created before and make only the layer ‘UV Vector Smart Object’ visible by clicking the eyes in front of the other layers to turn them off. Then close the folder again.

I’m also going to create a New layer and put it at the bottom of all the layers in the Layers palette, then fill it with white colour using the ‘Paint Bucket Fill Tool’.

The white background will make it easier to see what I’m going to do next.

Now the file looks like this.


Preparations-Part3 06Create a New layer. I called mine: MIDDLE GUIDE-LINES. ( I also right-clicked the layer choosing ‘Properties’ and used Gray for layer-colour. )

Zoom in really close and use the ‘Pencil Tool’ with a 1 pixel Brush, Normal Mode, 100% Opacity.

Draw a line vertically in the middle of the map. That would be at: 511 pixels on the x-axis. I’m using black for colour


Preparations-Part3 07Then drag the new layer into the folder: UV-MAPS and put it at the very top.

As a final step: Lock the position of the layer by selecting the layer and click on the crossed arrows at the top of the Layers Palette.

Now you can make all the layers in the folder visible again and close the folder by clicking the little arrow in front of it.

Go to File/Save to save your improved file.


Preparations-Part3 08Next!
Repeat all the steps above with Robin Wood’s texture-template-file for the UPPER-BODY.

Here you have to use two vertical lines since the map contains both the front and back of the body. That would be at: 262 pixels and 775 pixels on the x-axis.


Preparations-Part3 09Almost done!

Repeat all the steps above with Robin Wood’s texture-template-file for the LOWER-BODY.

Here the two vertical lines would be at: 182 pixels and 593 pixels on the x-axis.


Go to File/Save to save your improved files.

Finally!

Ok! Now all your Template-files are ready! This is how mine look now!

Preparations-Part3 14
Preparations-Part3 15
Preparations-Part3 16

Using the Guide-lines to mirror clothing

At some part along the way, when you create clothing or skins you probably want both sides of for example “the front of a pair of pants” to be exactly the same. Then you may use the middle guide-lines to mirror one side and merge them together. Here is how I do that!

Let’s assume we’re gonna make a pair of pink underpants! The first step is to open your improved copy of Robin Wood’s texture-template-file for the LOWER-BODY go to File/Save as and rename it to something like:”‘Pink Panties” :).

Preparations-Part3 17Now you would create two new layers called “Back” and “Front”.


Preparations-Part3 18Then draw the front part of the panties on half of the “Front-layer” and the back part on half of the “Back-layer” and make sure the seams match (use the program UV Mapper as described in Making Clothes & Skins - Preparations Part 1).

Like this?


Preparations-Part3 19Now the mirror-part!

Select the “Front-layer” and use the ‘Rectangular Marquee Tool’ and select the part of the front that goes beyond the ‘Middle guide-lines’ to the right ( keep off the guide-line itself ).

Then hit ‘Del’ to make that part go away.


Preparations-Part3 20Now make a copy of the “Front-layer” and make sure that one is selected.

Find a nice spot on the grid and use the ‘Pencil Tool’ with a 1 pixel Brush, Normal Mode, 100% Opacity.

Draw some “Guideline pixels” on this layer. I’m using a green-blue colour. Like this?


Preparations-Part3 21Now you have to mirror the copy of the Front-layer!

Hit Ctrl+F to flip this layer Horizontal.

Now it looks like this.


Preparations-Part3 22Use the ‘Move Tool’ and move the ‘Front copy’ layer until its a perfect mirror of the ‘Front’ layer.


Preparations-Part3 23Use the “Guideline pixels” from before and make sure they show up at the same place but to the left of the middle-line instead.


Preparations-Part3 24Use the ‘Rectangular Marquee Tool’ and select the part of the front that is overlapping the front-layer. Make sure the selection ends precisely to the right of the “Middle Guide-line” ( include the guide-line this time ).

Hit Del to make the overlapping pixels go away (that will also delete the blue “Guideline-pixels”).


Preparations-Part3 25Finally you have to merge the front-layers together to keep both front parts of the panties in one layer.

Link the two layers together and hit Ctrl+E to merge them (make them into one).


Now you have to repeat all the steps above with the ‘Back’ layer. It will work exactly the same way.

This is the final result:

Preparations-Part3 26

Final words

I made these “preparation tutorials” to show you some techniques that might be useful when creating skins and clothes.

But most important - I’m going to use them in the tutorials for skins and clothes. And since I’m lacy…

Now I don’t have to repeat these steps in every tutorial and that will make those tutorials shorter and more easy to follow - I hope!

Maybe you think these steps to prepare yourself before you start making clothes or skins are too time consuming..? In the long run these steps will save you time. I promise!

Tjingeling for now!

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Updated: December 2007

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18 Comments

  1. dorian:

    this has to be by far the poorest put together tutorial i’ve ever seen….so many steps missing and too many things that are vague and unexplained

  2. Olila Oh:

    @dorian:
    Sorry you think so. It would be helpful if you told me what you thought was vague and unexplained. But I’ll look it through because I realise that it was a long time since I wrote it and I’m sure it needs an update.

    But it’s hard to keep up with a tutorialblog like this - keeping it up to date - everything changes so fast :) and I don’t have as much time as I used to.

  3. Brent:

    I found the tutorial very detailed and by you having links to the programs / templates saved anyone having to search for them. I followed the steps as i read in part one but I think i will print out in order to follow part 2 and 3. This is the most detailed i have seen, if there is better or a video i haven’t seen it yet.
    Thanks for the Great work

  4. Olila Oh:

    @Brent:
    Oh, thanks! Now I feel better! :)

  5. Andry:

    Cool !! Great work Olila :)

    I am in need of such a tutorial. As I was going through your tutorial, I had all the prgrams ready, but faced
    Difficulty trying to load the imagine into the UV -mapper … I have the demo version, and I am on a mac ..
    could you help ? please :)

  6. Olila Oh:

    @ Andry & All:
    Hi!
    Now I checked the latest version of UV MAPPER Professional Demo (3.5c).
    It works and looks exactly the same way as described in the tutorial. It supports BMP, JPG and GIF images (BMP is best choice here). Please take your time and do exactly as I did, and you will not have any problems!

    And if you do maybe try the UV MAPPER Help…

  7. ankybidis monday:

    omg! ur a good , thanx for all :D

  8. Olila Oh:

    @ankybidis monday:
    Thanks! And u are welcome! :D

  9. mel:

    My program is pse 7 and its looks different, i dont know where to start :)

  10. Olila Oh:

    @mel:
    PS Elements? Well I’m so sorry but I cant help you since I don’t own that program.
    It is a simpler version of Photo Shop and I’m not sure what features are included…

  11. Ginger Shamrock:

    I had trouble with your step which read “Select the ‘Neck Polys Vector SO’ layer and click the folder at the bottom of the layers palette.” I am using Gimp….and there does not seem to be a folder at the bottom of the layers palette. Got stuck here…and could not continue without bypassing this entire section.

  12. Olila Oh:

    @Ginger

    Hi!
    This is a tutorial for PhotoShop… I do not use GIMP…
    GIMP is really good but it works another way than PS.
    The parts you have trouble with:
    Maybe its not possible to create a layer-set in GIMP? Or its done a different way?
    Almost anything I describe can be done in GIMP - only you have to figure out how to do it in that program…

    Sorry I couldn’t help you more…

  13. Delphine:

    Hey,

    Your tutorials are great and have helped me so much, But as I’m also using Gimp I also got a little stuck. Where in the world did you get that shading layer? it looks amazing, and I think I can find my way around if I had it, But I just can’t find it in any of the templates given.

    Thanks for the tutorial and the help ^^
    -Delphine

  14. nette:

    hi!
    love your tutorials..but can you explain why the template
    (for example the upper body) after its loaded to the avatar, covers the whole body? i’m trying to make a shirt but when i load the texture onto the avatar, the whole body(not just the upper body) is covered with the texture? hopefully i explained it clearly..i’m kinda puzzled myself… :) thanks!

  15. nette:

    oh, i forgot to add that i use Gimp, if thats helpful

  16. Olila Oh:

    @Delphine
    Tha shaded layer is a part of “Robin Woods Texture-Map Templates”.

    @Nette
    If you mean in UV-mapper just ignore that - it always covers all parts. Consentrate on the part you are working on. :)

  17. Valerie:

    For anyone using Gimp who is unable to open the jpeg templates like I was, try download the layered PSD files instead. They do open in Gimp but they won’t have a background colour so you’ll need to add a white layer as a background to be able to see the template properly, just make sure you make that layer invisible when u save it to preview it on a preview program like UV Mapper.
    Make sure the white background layer is at the bottom of the layers stack so you can see the other layers over it.

  18. Olila Oh:

    @Valerie
    Thanks! Since I dont use Gimp all Gimp-tips are welcome! :)

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